The ruff, an extension of a simple collar, that appeared in the 16th century was a form in fashion that grew in length and breadth after its introduction and took on symbolic as well as aesthetic meaning.
It grew out of the gathering of fabric at the neckline of the typical chemise, or undergarment, worn under outer layers of clothing. The chemise served to protect the outer garments from excessive wear and washing and were usually made of sturdier linen that could be bleached and cleaned with frequency. The collection of fabric at the neckline, that would be tied or cinched and form a small collar, would often stand out in its whiteness and in its fabric composition against the features of the wearer’s outer garments. By virtue of this initial distinction, it came to have an importance in its own right and the aesthetic language of the collar, or more elaborate ruff, broadened accordingly.
The ruff survived longest as an accessory in Holland, after evolving quickly and becoming a form separate from the chemise, where it also grew to the most extravagant sizes– cartwheel ruffs were popular there up until the mid-17th century and were often so wide, up to a foot and a half, as to require wiring to retain their shape. Otherwise, the shape of ruffs was maintained by use of starch. The rigidity of the ruff thus ensured that the wearer projected a dignified pose that, because of hindered movement, suggested a life of leisure and attendance to. 
Regardless of religion, ethnicity or cultural background, the closing of the old year and the beginning of the new year is celebrated in many countries in many ways and has been for hundreds, sometimes thousands of years. Here in the West traditions such as resolutions, counting down the clock, New Year’s Eve parties, resolutions and resounding renditions of ‘Auld Lang Syne’ are the norm. In fact, much of the modern New Year’s traditions celebrated in the United States stem from the ancient Scottish tradition of Hogmany.
Hogmany stems from the ancient pagan festivals celebrating the changing seasons and the phases of the moon. It seems to combine both Roman and Druidic traditions of the winter solstice and may have originally run from the shortest day of the year to the beginning of the Pagan new year. Today, Hogmany runs from December 31 to January 1 or 2, depending on local custom.
The Scottish Reformation of the 1600s, that changed Roman Catholic Scotland to Calvinist Scotland, saw an end of superstitious and loose interpretations of religion such as the celebration of Christmas. Despite this Scottish version of the Protestant Reformation, the celebration of the new year was never thwarted even though sometimes, the celebrations, feasting and singing went underground.
It wasn’t until the 1960s that Scotland made December 25th a national holiday. Until that time the winter celebrations were confined to the Hogmany festival. Even today, Hogmany is most often the time the Scots swap gifts, visit friends and take time off work to be with family.
The word ‘hogmany’ means night of the new year and comes from the Gaelic and involves a few customs that never crossed the pond. In Scotland, new year’s parties often include a bonfire which may stem from ancient festivals where fire and the sun were worshipped across the highlands. Community sized parties rather than small social gatherings are also the norm in Scotland. Being the first to enter a house after the clock has struck midnight with a small token such as a lump of coal is meant to bring good luck.
The famous song Auld Lang Syne was rewritten from ancient sources by the famous poet Robert Burns in 1788 and has become the song of choice for Brits, Scots and Americans alike. It is a song celebrating friendship, kindness and good cheer and is sung when the clock strikes midnight.
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Many new year celebrations came to America with the immigrants but many have grown around the advent of television. Watching the ball drop in Times Square is a new tradition that allows many modern Americans to bring in the new year from the comfort of their living rooms. Perhaps this year as we sing Auld Lang Syne and bring in the new year, we will remember how the celebration comes to us from times past connecting us to history as it propels us into the future. | |||||||||
Tags: American Immigrant, Auld Lang Syne, Calvinism, Celtic, Druid, history of new year's eve, Hogmany, New Year, new year's eve celebration, Pagan, poet robert burns, Protestant Reformation, Roman Catholic, Scottish Reformation, Times Square
At the end of the 18th century as France was suffering through the Revolution (1789-99), changes in fashion were as dramatic as the change in the political order. What had characterized French style up until the Revolution had been costume resonant of the lavish, exquisite lifestyle of the French nobility and monarchy. By the late 1780’s France was severely in debt and the monarchy, enjoying its absolute power, along with the nobility and their feudal retentions were unable to align themselves with the majority of the population. 
In a radical shift, all this gave way to a more simplified form of dress during the revolutionary period. People moved away from the costume that had been representative of the Ancien Regime and chose to do away with the full skirts, flurry of ruffles and bows and the pompous wigs that had been so popular. Men’s clothing was curtailed slightly, too, with pant legs lengthening slightly and the look becoming generally more severe. Women relieved themselves of the tight corset and favored the classically-reminiscent high-waisted dress with a freer form and wigs were discarded in favor of natural hairstyles also influenced by neo-classical aesthetic.
Until the mid 1550s in England the fashion remained for women to wear narrow-shouldered dresses with sleeves that widened to a trumpet form, a vestige of a medieval fashion. Towards the end of the 16th century, however, with the reign of Queen Elizabeth I, this fashion gave way to narrower, more form-fitting, sleeves and high, padded shoulders in the French and Spanish style. The reign of Queen Elizabeth would be accentuated by the display of style that she herself embodied. She would become the namesake and emblem of the Elizabethan era, her long reign as regent allowing for great cultural achievements as well as political change in England.
The images of her became exemplary of the popular fashion of the time but with a level of glorification suited to a figure ordained by God, as she herself saw her role and responsibility as monarch. Typical of dress worn by women of the period, the upper arms of the garment would billow out and narrow towards the wrist and often would be decorated with slashings that allowed the underdress, or chemise top, to show through the surface textile. Women would wear form-fitting bodices that defined the waist and ended in a V-like shape, while lace accessories were often used to adorn the edge of the bodice at the chest and were also made as sleeve coverings.
The history of Santa Claus is so embedded in the psyche of modern society, that no matter that religions change, are rejected and revised time and time again, faith in a magical figure that gives out toys to children remains with us. Whether he is called Sinta Klaus, Santa Claus, Father Christmas or old Saint Nick, the gentleman in red seems an almost permanent fixture in the history of western civilization.
Towards the end of the third century of the Common Era, Nicholas of Turkey, (often believed to have been either a bishop or monk or at the least a man of spiritual nature) had a reputation for extreme generosity. Early stories tell accounts of marriage dowries given to young girls without fathers and presents given anonymously (through open door or window) to poor children and orphans. As the legend goes, Nicholas secretly traveled by horse (or deer and sleigh in another version) across the region distributing gifts to worthy recipients, although accounts do differ. Whatever he did and however he traveled, Nicholas set an example that sent a resounding message.
In modern Germany, December 6 is the day traditional families set their shoes in front of the fire along with food for the deer (or horses) and wait for Sinta Klaus to show up in the middle of the night, feed his furry friends and replace empty shoes with ones full of candy and sweet treats (compare with the hanging of stockings here).
