In 16th century Europe, Spanish fashion set the pace for trends among the noble classes. Both men and women took to the Spanish style of close-fitted doublets, narrowed sleeves and waists and a general austerity in color choice. One accessory of clothing that came from Spain and lived a brief life of popularity in fashion circles was the berne or sbernia (Italian.) This rectangular mantle would have been worn by women as a covering over the head and shoulders or wrapped under one arm and knotted at the opposite shoulder in an ‘apostolic’ fashion. Its male counterpart was a cloak worn in the military and of similar style though constructed of coarse wool and imported from Ireland (Hibernia)– suggesting another etymology for the word.

Essentially the berne or sbernia was a draped cloak meant to adorn the feminine posture, reminiscent of the classical period and somewhat incongruous to a contemporary fashion of wide farthingales and bolstered shoulder padding. Nonetheless it had its moment: a woman of the mid-1500s wearing her berne and paired with a nobleman in his Spanish cape, who donned high collar and trim doublet and wore his swept hilt rapier at his side, made a stately image.

*image– Women wearing sbernia. A Genoese lady (left) and a lady of Avignon (right) by Cesare Vecellio.1590.
*image– Portrait of Federico Gonzaga II. Titian, oil painting. 1525.

Renaissance Store Conquistador Pikeman Armor with Helmet Double Barrel Flintlock Pistol Swept Hilt Rapier Spanish Taza Cup Hilt Rapier

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