Appearances have evolved dramatically over time, however, one of the most extravagant and over the top periods was the Elizabethan era. During this time the female appearance was controlled to such an extent that cosmetics become dangerous and sometimes even lethal.

During the Elizabethan era a good complexion was considered to be highly important. So much so that many recipes began circulating describing the best mixtures to remove freckles, pimples and pox-marks. One such recipe by Hugh Platt in his book, Delights of Ladies detailed “Wash the face and body of a sucking child with breast milk or cow milk or mixed with water every night and the child’s skin will wax fair and clear and resist sunburn”.

Other recipes including mixing lead with marble and heating the mixture for several days until only a powder is left. This is then mixed with vinegar to create a thick paste which could be applied to the face, neck and bosom leaving the skin looking white and blemish free. However, the use of lead in the cosmetics could often cause the skin to burn and peel away. At the every least it would become shrunken and gray. Egg white could also be used on the skin to create a ‘glazed’ look and to hide wrinkles. Elizabeth I is known for her skin, which she insisted be covered in white paste to hide her pox-marks. (The Queen suffered smallpox at the age of twenty-nine which left her skin badly blemished.)

Perhaps another reason for the extreme beauty aids used at this time was due to the increasing importance of painted portraits. We certainly see pasty white faces in Elizabethan portraits and portraits dating back to as far as 1521. Even the men are depicted dressed in their finest, displaying their wealth and apparent good looks.

While the Queen herself was the most influential in the Elizabethan fashion market, not everyone approved of the time and effort put into cosmetics and clothes. Thomas Becon, using the Bible as him main source, wrote “I will… that women array themselves in comely appeal, with shamefacedness and discrete behaviour, not with braided hair, gold or pearls or costly array.” While Thomas Tuke’s book, ‘A Discourse against Painting and Tincturing of Women’ first published in 1616, stated “Fucus is paint, and fucus is deceit, and fucus they used, that do mean to cheat”. Even one of Shakespeare’s sonnets scorns and makes fun of the ideals of Elizabethan beauty;

“My mistress’ eyes are nothing like the sun
Coral is far more fair than her lips fair
If snow be white, why then her breast is dun,
If hair be wires, black wires grow on her head…”

Several male writers thought that cosmetics and clothing hid the true nature of a woman and their beauty was used to entice rich men into marrying them. Certainly, Elizabeth’s mother Anne Boylen was beheaded for bewitching the Henry VIII. One reason for this is that the white paste used to cover blemishes hid the humble women’s blush. Blushing was seen as a sign of innocence, a quality much desired in a woman. Nevertheless, writers like Becon and Tuke did nothing to change Elizabeth’s ideals of beauty nor her life long quest for perfection.

History Store Deschaux Rapier - Three Ringed Rapier Garden of bagatelle Tapestry (Jardin de Bagatelle) Black Steel Hoop Oak Barrel - 5 Gallons Whiskey Oak Barrel with Black Steel Hoops - 20 Liter

Our history themed gifts and collectibles offer the most culturally astute customer the perfect source for all their gift giving needs. Our products make great gifts for anniversaries, birthdays, holidays and other special occasions. Whether you seek an elegant piece of jewelry or a gag gift for the history enthusiast in your life, we will help you find it.

Further reading:
‘Women According to Men, the World of Tudor-Stuart Women’ by Suzanne W. Hull

About the Author
Charlotte Gardner, a guest blog writer, is currently studying archaeology at the Australian National University. In her spare time she likes to read and write about eccentric historical moments. Her love of old buildings and older stories was sparked when she visited Italy. One of Charlotte’s greatest wishes is that in a few thousand years her skeleton will be dug up by an archaeological investigation team and put on display in a national museum. You may contact Charlotte via email at: charlotteg86@gmail.com.

Tags: 1521, 1616, 16th century cosmetics, A Discourse against Painting and Tincturing of Women, Ann Boylen, Black Steel Hoop Oak Barrel - 5 Gallons, Delights of Ladies, Deschaux Rapier - Three Ringed Rapier, Elizabethan appearance, elizabethan cosmetics, Elizabethan Era, elizabethan fashion, Elizabethan portraits, Garden of bagatelle Tapestry (Jardin de Bagatelle), good complexion in history, Henry VIII, historical cosmetic recipes, Hugh Platt, Queen Elizabeth I, renaissance cosmetics, Renaissance Fashion, Thomas Becon, Thomas Tuke, Whiskey Oak Barrel with Black Steel Hoops - 20 Liter, William Shakespeare's critique on women's cosmetics