Our notions of the display involved in horse racing apply both to the jockeys riding the thoroughbreds as well as to the audience enraptured by the spectacle. Jockey costumes, dominated by the jackets called racing silks, are easily identifiable in the color and patterning that distinguish them from one another and relay their association to owner and horse. Jockeys are also familiar for their knee-length jodhpurs, the high-cut riding boot, and their protective helmets.

The history of horse racing can be traced historically to centuries ago as can the use of colored cloth to distinguish rider. The evolution of the colored racing silks can be traced to the European medieval tradition of coats of arms associated with particular families and affiliations. In the late 18th century the English Jockey Club recorded the first resolution to establish a uniform code that would identify and distinguish rider and horse during a race. The tradition took hold and today, to enter races such as the famous Kentucky Derby, owners must register their silk colors with the authorizing body. A combination of color and pattern, such as circle, line, star, or square designs will comprise the unique detailing of the shirt and helmet cover and sometimes the horse’s saddle blanket.

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The display of costume is seen in the racing arena as much as in the audience where, particularly in previous eras or in races such as the Kentucky Derby, there can be a strong tradition of fashion flare and ceremony among the onlooking crowds. The show of hats and fashion at the Kentucky Derby is well known and celebrated in some circles and reflects upon the history of horse racing as a spectator sport for the elite classes. Media attention and the introduction of branding to the sport have opened it up and made horse racing a more accessible sport,

attractive to viewers from all backgrounds, but part of its image necessitates retaining an aura of privilege and elitism, as seen most clearly in the colored silks and the heritage they showcase.

image: jockey on horse print, 1800s
image: photography, jockey, 1970s

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